The site and community should be structured such that what it values discussion for naturally bubbles up, not different opinionated flags for each interest, fad, or pet peeve.
Though, funnily enough, this kind of info and more is extremely easy to add to HN via a vibed extension. At this point, mine just stops HN from loading completely and constructs its own page (with a proper dark theme and the information I care about).
Any community needs not only a bubbling up of good content, but also an immune system against bad content. Otherwise in practice you become inundated with spam and noise.
The reason for this is an effort asymmetry: casting upvotes is easy, and most people do it without much thought, whereas determining that something is spam or misinformation requires looking a lot more closely.
Given the interdependencies of Google's Android, I'm not sure I'd trust something so subjective to AI. I'm sure I would disagree with it regarding what's bloat, what's necessary, and which dependencies I'm willing to break
You are repeating years-old news by now. It’s true that the 2022 through 2025 model years had the ICCU problem, but they improved the ICCU design in 2026, with both better hardware (heavier duty power electronics) and better software (slow start for 12V charging).
Of course time will tell whether this brings failure rate down to be negligible. But I feel pretty confident.
It's not years old news, I was looking at used models and it still is an ongoing question. Having no real fix (time will tell if the 2026 revised part is reliable) and leaving owners with a potential brick (and re-servicing it again when the part dies) is completely unacceptable. Many Kia's were lemon'ed based on this issue.
Maybe I'm sensitive as I have a young child, but I will not buy a car with a known potential of stranding me.
If not, just don’t buy it. Let the free market sort it out. If the new part is proven to be good, the market will price these cars much higher, and sellers will perform a preemptive replacement to get higher resale value.
It should be noted that is for their E-GMP platform, which is their 800 V system. Their older 400 V platform, used on the Kia Niro and Hyundai Kona, has a completely different ICCU which has not had those problems. The first generation had some coolant leaks in the DC-DC converter housing and sometimes did a bad job keeping the 12 V battery charged but they seem to have got it all worked out for the second generation in 2024.
Don't do this. Install a transfer switch. A simple plug and another power source feeds power back into the grid. It's absolutely against code. If you remember to flip the furnace breaker off before you do this, then it's not going to backfeed, but this isn't something you should rely on remembering to do. It doesn't cost much more to do it right.
I think they're proposing switching your furnace from hard wired to plugged, so you have the option to power it either from an outlet (grid) or solar/generator/etc. This can't backfeed the grid, and is very safe.
It looks like when it's against code it's "by default": if an appliance is not explicitly listed as acceptable for a plug it has to be hard wired. ND and OK have passed state level amendments allowing it, some places have done this locally, and in many places building inspectors allow it with their discretion.
Yeah, maybe I misread. Switching it manually via a plug such that it could only ever be powered that way is fine (well, "fine" insofar as it alleviates my concern). I thought the suggestion was to add the new plug in addition to the permanently-wired solution.
On a beast of a HVAC system, a simple 15A wall plug isn't going to cut it for powering the whole thing, but if the furnace runs off e.g. natural gas and you just want to power the blower off a 15A plug, that solves the problem of switching power sources.
It's not against code in all locations. You're essentially adding a power cord to your furnace and turning it's existing panel connection into an outlet.
Eg, in North Dakota
"If manufacturer instructions allow the use of not more than six feet of flexible appliance cord, it shall be permitted on permanently installed one hundred twenty volt twenty amp or less fuel-fired furnaces in residential dwellings."
This is fun, thanks for the note on "hard mode" (maybe call it Settings instead of Appearance).
It was extremely annoying to have it auto skip punctuation. Maybe you should just ignore the keypresses for punctuation marks instead of showing a red indicator for the next character.
The cost of solar is 1X - 20X depending on location. US has the highest costs, followed by maybe Western Europe.
The panels are dirt-cheap[1] straight from China, but your friendly govt adds tariffs.
The balance of the system is super costly in some locations, ridiculously cheap in other locations.
In Pakistan, they are laying out the panels on the roof without any structure.
In most of the third world, homes are concrete built, they already have structural elements and it isn't a big deal to add panels. It is a massive project in US, because of shingled roof. Labor is also available, available immediately, and permitting is either easy or not necessary.
I'd assume the cheapest total install cost would be (cheapest to costliest): China, Pakistan, Bangladesh, middle-east,, Africa, South East Asia, Central America, Mexico, India, South America, Australia, Eastern Europe, Western Europe, Canada, and finally US.
I'm ignoring the cost of land which varies a lot in each country. We also don't need land, just add vertical solar on every structure, fence and wall.
[1]or as cheap as plywood which a HN comment pointed out
I have one in the bedroom. On low, I barely hear it during the day (extra ambient noise from outside) but at night the white-noise is subtle but effective. That said, I don't like "loud" white noise, just a quiet hum.
YSK on low you won't be getting much air cleaning power. All air purifiers are rated based on their top fan speed.
Housefresh, which is a criminally underrated review channel btw, recently did a comparison of PC fans for this purpose. The Thermalright TL-14C family came out strong in the "Silent" category, with the best ultra-quiet 24/7 fan speed performance. This comes at the cost of slightly worse max speed CADR vs the venerable Arctic P14.
IQAir HyperHEPA is substantially worse than the AirFanta 3Pro. The 3Pro gives you about 10x more clean air per dollar (2 CFM/$ vs 0.2 CFM/$), and 2.5x more clean air at a given noise level (45dBA: 213 vs 86 CFM).
I agree big fans moving slowly is better all else equal, and something AirFanta-like that used a 12" fan could be even better.
It's likely Apple is optimizing for the unfolded experience rather than the outer screen.
While researching Samsung folding phones, I found it interesting that some users seem to rarely unfold it. I'd guess the Samsung did the opposite and chose an aspect ratio matching regular phones, which gives the inner display suboptimal usability, especially for media.
Samsung have experimented with bringing back the 'passport' format on the Z Fold 8, presumably as a hedge against the Duo taking off.
People seem to find it pretty ungainly compared to the more common tall/thin format - it has to be used with both hands even when closed, even though Samsung's one handed mode shifts the keyboard across as well as down (I don't think Apple's does, so it'll even be worse).
Sure, it's a better format when opened but that might account for only 10-20% of the time in use.
Or some flag to ignore users that post these types of projects often.
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