It’s used in many other foods as well. Shipped in drums of either liquid which is sprayed on or a pellet/dust form for mixing with dry foods. It’s easier to transport and store than a big compressed gas tank.
It doesn’t seem so much like real introversion in the Nordics as much as people are just comfortable being solo for long periods. The same people are perfectly capable of handling social interaction, they just don’t opt for socializing. It feels different to what I would consider a real introvert who fears and has trouble dealing with social settings.
When using zstd (or anything else) make sure you don't have something in your .sss/config that would make ssh use a compression as you'll waste a bit of CPU to send a little more data as a less efficient compression method is applied on top. Though TBH I think that unless I'm on a very slow link, if I'm sending something big enough to need compression it is probably in a pre-compressed or otherwise uncompressable format anyway (video, photos, …) so zstd does little, the one exception I can think of being if I'm throwing an unencrypted VM image from place to place.
Insurance won't cover it if you're found to have non-code electrical as the source of a fire. Electricians are expensive, but it's worth having one inspect your work to correct/teach you the approved install method.
Ideally yes. For me I found following the code difficult. Then compound that with needing to know the NECA <https://www.necanet.org/topics/codesandstandards/neis/the-st...> + the state codes. It's non-contiguous in the way it's written so you need to know the relevant sections and how to apply them together. Simple things add up; proper color coding of wiring, knowing how much sleeve to leave in at the edge of a box, what cable nuts are appropriate size for the number of wires bonded, size of box needed based on number of wires, how/where boxes can be mounted, space between EMT in bends, what size bus-bar is appropriate and what can share it.
To the first approximation you have to control thermal output of your wiring.
Since it's I^2*R, you have to size your wires according to max sustained current, take into account thermal conductivity of where your wires are placed and keep all contacts tight. Also size circuit breakers according to that max current so they trip before the whole thing catastrophically overheats. Which is a trivial exersize in itself.
Short-to-case and leak current protection (the reason for three-wire systems/PE conductors and differential protection) takes second place. In larger installations there are also considerations about grounding / ground loops, but that usually does not matter for residential.
This is what the most of the code should be about (I never read US ones, but was doing apartments/small homes for like 20 years already).
The rest, as in colors, sleeves and exact connectors used is helpful, but not critical, and if you think that a typical contractor would not botch it up in a most horrible way, well..
I ran PVC between my house and shop/office with 2 sets of single-mode fiber instead of ethernet. Electrical code will require proper grounding for copper for lightning strikes.
Like /u/someothherguyy said it depends on the cable type. There are shielded and jacketed outdoor cables that don't require PVC/EMT, but usually you'll have to terminate them yourself so there's additional tooling required.
I went with PVC because it's the easiest to work with, NEC only required it be buried 12in below the surface for residential, but I went to 24". I oversized the PVC a bit so I had room to run more cables as well. I filled the trench with gravel, ran the PVC over that, then filled over it with some more gravel. A thin layer of dirt, marking tape and then the rest of the dirt. Rent a trencher if you have hard ground.
If you're having a licensed electrician do the work of connecting house and office power then you can ask them to run the conduit for it at the same time.
reply